In the end, all you take with you is your story.

-Australia-

9.29.2009

"Baxter, you know I don't speak (Korean)!"

Trying to find out where to take my garbage was like playing at a scavenger hunt. It seems that there are no public trash bins of any kind around here or at least none that I have been able to find. I had a small build up of trash in my apartment since moving in and had put it all in a plastic shopping bag. I finally found the garbage room, recycled my plastic bottles, but didn’t quite know which bin to put my trash in. I was about to dump the bag into one of the bins, when one of the security men came inside and yelled at me and grabbed the bag. I realized that the trash needed to be completely separated; plastic, paper, food scraps, glass, thicker paper, misc. items before being tossed into the bins. I was trying to ask him in English what I needed to do and all the while he was yelling at me in Korean. He gave up trying to argue with me and then shooed me away with the motion of his hand. He began to separate it muttering to himself. I walked away feeling embarrassed and really bad that this man had to pick through my garbage. I have decided that from now on I will try and separate my trash as best I can and sneak my garbage out late at night in hopes of avoiding another scolding.

While at the grocery store yesterday I picked a few bananas and put them into my bag and into my shopping container. When I arrived at the check out I set the bananas on the counter and the woman began telling (or asking?) me something about them in Korean. She was pointing to them and speaking Korean and I was shrugging my shoulders. I had no idea what she was trying to tell me. Then she leaped over her station and ran back into the store. A few minutes later she returned with a bar code sticker on the bag. Opps.

I stood in what appeared to be the laundry and cleaning product isle of the store for a good ten minutes trying to decide which product was laundry soap, fabric softener, and dish washing soap. I have no idea which one I ended up buying.

There was a strange bell that sounded in my apartment yesterday morning and I had no idea where it was coming from. Then came an announcement in Korean, and I realized that there was a speaker on my ceiling I hadn’t noticed before. I obviously had no idea what was said so I peaked outside my door slowly to make sure it wasn’t some sort of emergency evacuation plan or something and realized it was all clear. I went about my morning and then jumped in the shower. Freezing cold water sputtered out of the showerhead. I was desperately trying to turn the handle to the hottest water setting without any success. I quickly put two and two together and understood what the Korean announcement had been trying to tell me.


Namaste

9.28.2009

Address

I still do not know my actual apartment address, but Hye-sun told me that I can receive my mail at the school and it will be much easier that way. Here is the school address just in case you might like to send me something:

Neulpureun Elementary School
(c/o Jacqueline Scuderi)
Jeongja-dong, Bundang-gu, Seongnam City, Gyeonggi-do
South Korea 463-834


Namaste

9.27.2009

Fork? You need fork?

Hye-sun took me out to dinner Friday night to a 'fusion' Korean restaurant. I'm not sure what she meant by fusion because she told me it was more western than a traditional Korean restaurant, but the only difference that seemed to be evident was that we sat in chairs at tables with shoes on instead of on the floor with our shoes off. The Korean food was really different, and they kept bringing more! We must have had 5 courses of food that they brought to the table. Each course contained 3 or more plates or dishes of food. That is not even counting the side dishes. They are all about the side dishes here. I did not count, but we must have had at least 35 different dishes of food on our table throughout the meal. I was the only foreigner in the place and when I had trouble eating my salad with chopsticks, they brought me a fork. Korean food is incredibly spicy and I am a wimp.

After dinner she told me she needed to stop by the school and finish some work and insisted that I come with her. Mind you it was 8:30 P.M. on a Friday night. We ended up staying at the school until after 11P.M. Hye-sun and some of the other teachers were preparing the yearly assessments that students will take this week. It was just amazing to me to experience the difference in work ethic here in Korea. The teachers were filing and working furiously to finish and weren't going home until it was completed. Now I am not saying that teachers in the US do not work their butts off and put in long hours and weekends to prepare for their students, but can you imagine staying at school 'til 11:30 P.M. on a Friday night? (minus Friday Night Live or some other special event) Not I. You couldn't pay me enough. And that's the thing; teachers here are underpaid.

I have to admit, it's been a bit lonely at times here. People say, "Well you've been to Africa. This will be easy. You can do anything." I realized that although I have lived in Kenya and backpacked through Africa, I have always had other Americans or westerners with/near me. I have also never been to a country where most people do not understand at least the most basic English phrases. I have never been totally on my own before. I came to Korea not knowing a single person.

When the weekend rolled around I had hoped to have met some people to hang out with or do something with. I really hadn't seen many other foreigners around and the ones I did see seemed to be very preoccupied and unapproachable. As you all know I like to take on the role of social butterfly at times and was really wanting to meet some people, so I decided to Google the nightlife here in Bundang and see what there was to do. I came across a facebook group and contacted some people to see if anyone wanted to hang out. I definitely felt like I needed to be taking out a want ad. in a newspaper or something. "20-something girl in Bundang seeking other normal people, foreign or Korean, to paint the town." Now, I would never have had the courage to do something like this back home, but what other options did I have for meeting people and making plans?

It all turned out well and have met some great people. I ended up going out last night and had a fantastic time. We went to a house warming party, dinner (yummy Korean BBQ where I was once again asked if I needed a fork), hopped a bus to Seoul and hit up a hookah bar, dance club, and finally a Japanese style bar/restaurant. Seoul was crazy. There were mobs of people everywhere and so many brightly lit neon signs covering every building. Here are some of my observations from my first night out: young Korean women in Seoul are absolutely beautiful and fashionable. Western guys make fools of themselves trying to flirt with Korean women. People dance in lines all staring a screen with flashing lights and images at a dance club. (apparently this is not always the case) Most buses and the subway shut down around midnight so people give themselves an excuse to stay out late. (as if they need one; there is always something to do) 5 A.M. is a relatively early bedtime.

Despite my late hours last night, I woke up this morning and Hye-sun picked me up to go hiking. Korean people are very intense about their hiking. Hye-sun told me that the trail was 'easy' so I was not that concerned with not being in the best shape. Needless to say the trail was very steep and by my standards not 'easy'. I was dripping sweat by the time we reached the summit. Hye-sun did not even have one gleaming pearl on her face. Korean people don't seem to sweat, though, I have no idea how that is possible. She asked me why I didn't wear a hat to help cover my skin from the sun. I found out that the reason why the women I had seen on the running trail wore those visors and masks was not to protect from swine flu, but to save their skin from the sun. They are obsessed about skin care here and staying and looking young. All part of their health regiments.

I was able to meet Hye-sun's son this afternoon when we went to lunch. He is your typical teenage boy; madly in love with computer games, acne covered face, will eat anything you put in front of him. He wants to study engineering in college and reminds me so much of my brother Matt at his age.

Tomorrow will mark day number 6 here in S.K. and so far my impressions of the place have been positive overall. I am really hoping to get the results of my medical check tomorrow or this week so I can get my alien registration card and begin work. I am eager to get in a classroom and begin teaching again.

Small victory: I successfully washed my first load of laundry in my Korean washing machine. All it took was 3 days to figure out how to open the door and one You Tube video to show me how to load the detergent.


Namaste

9.25.2009

What's My Address??

While I have been here for almost three days I have no clue what my address is. I know how to get to my apartment from the surrounding area, but do not know what street it is on or what the number is. In America when you walk into a city apartment building there is usually a desk for you to sign in and someone sitting there for you to speak with. In Korea there is retail space on the bottom floor and no desk or helpful person to be found.

I have been happily exploring the area around my apartment these past couple of days and have found most of the things that I need. My co-teacher took me to a Wal-Mart equivalent, E Mart, yesterday and it houses most items that you can need or want. The store is four levels with a grocery store in the basement. The grocery store was awesome. I seriously felt like a little kid in a candy store; I could not stop staring and smiling. There must have been at least 100 people working on this level of the store. Each section of food has a designated person(s) handing out samples, talking loudly about the product, and generally helping you with your food buying decisions. It gets better; the employees were all wearing traditional Korean outfits and strange get-ups. Every single package is brightly colored and covered in Korean characters just beckoning you open it up and see what's inside.

There is a little river or stream called the Tancheon that runs through Bundang and there is a walking and biking trail that surrounds it. I have been running each day and am hoping that I can keep it up even when it gets cold. I have realized that most Korean people don't run. They power walk. All the women wear these giant plastic visors and gloves. I would say about 4 people out of 10 are wearing swine-flu masks while they walk. (Also on the streets. They are paranoid to the extreme about it here.) I was running yesterday and several older men were clapping for me and making cheering gestures with their hands. I have no clue what that was about but it was a little silly and I just had to smile.


the running trail along the Tancheon

I have visited my school a couple times now, but as I mentioned I am not allowed to formally be introduced or begin work until I receive my alien registration card. Yesterday Monica took me there to stop by and drop some things off. I met a few more teachers and the other vice principal. I would say there are only about 4 teachers/principals at the school that I have met so far who speak any English.

Speaking English is not common here. Some people are able to speak enough to understand me, but most have no clue how to even say hello. I believe that some people know more than they like to share, but are embarrassed because their English is not very good. I have heard this first hand from teachers at the school. Hand gestures are no longer just for charades.

People have been asking what I have been eating and to be honest, I have not had much Korean food. I do not understand how to read Korean yet and all Korean restaurants have menus that are all in characters. Some have pictures, but that is not very helpful in determining what is what. You also have to take off your shoes in a traditional Korean restaurant and sit at a larger communal table on a pillow on the floor. I am a little intimidated to do this on my own yet. I am going out to dinner tonight with Monica and am excited to try some new Korean cuisine. I am hoping to have her teach me a bit about how to order and help me so that I can dine out at a Korean restaurant on my own.

I bought a hair dryer yesterday and was excited to use it this morning so that I could flat iron my hair and actually wear it down. Once my hair was dry, I plugged in my flat iron to finish my hair and of course it stopped working. I think the voltage was off and I broke it. I really hope not, but I had to go and buy one here with a Korean plug.

And now the moment you've all been waiting for........... ok, well it's not that exciting, but here are pictures of my apartment. Side note: there are all kinds of little fruit stands, mini marts, and restaurants on the bottom level of my apartment building. There is even a fish store that has octopus, fish, and all kinds of other squiggly sea creatures swimming in water tanks on the sidewalk.


view from the front door



my bathroom


shower


walk-in closet


kitchen


view of the front room


kitchen table


my bed


gotta love the bedspread


shoe closet


view of the front door

Now mind you I vowed to never be one of those people who posts a million pictures of her first apartment/house online (sorry if that's your style) but I feel this does not count because 1. this is not facebook and 2. I am in foreign territory and 3. I have had some requests and I understand the need to see things to better understand because I myself am a visual learner.


Namaste

9.23.2009

48 Hours

How do you pack for a year? Very carefully. It took a special helper and I most of Sunday to get all of my belongings stuffed into my travel backpack and suitcase. I read that I was only allowed two 50 lb. bags to check in. Anything over 50 lbs. would cost me $150. After some rearranging and then rearranging some more, we figured it was close enough. Everything ready to go.

Monday morning 3 A.M. and the alarm goes off, thus begins my journey to South Korea. My dad drove me to the bus station to catch a bus to O’Hare Airport. Of course it began to rain just as we were lugging my bags out of the car and onto the bus. Once I arrived I dragged my bags to the United counter for check in. Fingers crossed that my bags were under weight. My large suitcase was 54 lbs. and my backpack was 46 lbs. The lady at the counter told me that I needed to make the one under 50 lbs. or she would charge me the $150 fee. So there I sat going through my luggage in the check in line and trying to discard heavier items. I stuffed my backpack along with a few items into a giant plastic bag that I was given. It was a little jank, but it made my suitcase an even 50 lbs. and saved me $150.

First stop: Seattle/Tacoma Airport. Arrived after a 4 hour flight, grabbed some lunch, and relaxed while anticipating my next leg of the journey to Seoul. While waiting for my flight I realized that I could count the number of Americans on my hands and decided I had better get used to being the odd man out.

The flight was 11 hours. The food was delicious, the service excellent, and I sat next to an older Korean gentleman who smelled like my Grandpa Pops used to smell and elbowed me the whole time. Guess you can’t win ‘em all.

The descent into Incheon Airport was beautiful. We came down over some mountains and were able to see some of the islands along the western side of the coast. Getting through customs and collecting luggage was no problem. Everything of mine had arrived safe and sound except my hair dryer. Fingers crossed that there was someone waiting for me outside the gate.

An older gentleman was holding a sign that read “Jacqueline Suzanne Scuderi Welcome to Korea”. I waved at him and said hello while he grabbed the luggage cart from me without so much as a smile. I realized immediately that he did not speak a word of English. We carried my stuff into his van and then departed the airport. Along the road he stopped and got out his cell phone to make a call. I assumed he didn’t know where he was going. He was shouting loudly in Korean and I was trying to tell if he was pissed or just hard of hearing. I could tell he was getting frustrated and then finally seemed to figure out where he was going. Even though he did not understand anything I said and I could not understand anything he said, we had an understanding by using gestures and reading body language. He gently touched my arm to make sure I was not too cold after he turned on the air. He got out two wrapped candies or throat lozenges, pointed to his throat, unwrapped the corner of the wrapper, and popped one in his mouth. He then unwrapped the corner of my wrapper and handed it to me. Later on in the drive he patted the back of my headrest and motioned for me to lay my head back. All of these little gestures made me feel comfortable and relaxed. They also made me see that my first impression of the man; hard, loud, and gruff were way off. He was in fact kind, attentive, and caring.

The ride to Bundang from the airport was scenic even though it was getting darker and darker. We drove over a large bridge that connects the airport to the mainland and then headed through Seoul. The traffic was just as busy as rush hour in the states even though it was 7 P.M. on a Tuesday. The lights from the city were ongoing and I saw just how expansive Seoul is. When we turned off the highway and got closer to my apartment I was in awe of the bright neon lights and all the signs that lined the streets. There are different signs advertising different businesses, restaurants, etc. that cover virtually every square inch of each building. I must say it made me feel a little less foreign to see things like Subway and Baskin Robins.

We arrived at my apartment building and met my co-teacher. She jumped in the van, explained to the driver where to pull in, and helped me lug my stuff to the elevator. Her name is Hye-sun, but she told me I could call her by her English name, which is Monica. Monica is middle aged and speaks English fairly well. I learned that she lived in the states for a year with her husband, a professor, while he was doing research at Arizona State University. She showed me around my apartment, gave me some contact information, and told me she would come to meet me in the morning to take me to my medical check at the hospital which is required for me to obtain my alien registration card.

My apartment is just right for me; a nice sized bathroom, large walk in closet, kitchen with a stove and oven, washing machine, and a front room with a kitchen table and bed. The window is rather large and overlooks the street below. Once again the neon signs are everywhere and I could not believe how bright it stayed in my apartment even with the blinds closed at 2 A.M. My first night here I slept ok, but was distracted by all the noise and commotion down below which didn’t really seem to settle down until about 3 A.M.

views from my apartment

My co-teacher came to pick me up this morning and we drove to my school. I was not expecting to go today, but it was great to get to see the building. It is huge! There are 5 or 6 stories and I just know I will get lost inside. I did not really get to introduce myself to any of the teachers or students, but Monica took me to see one of the Vice Principals. Monica then told me that she would be taking me to the hospital for my medical check today. The Vice Principal, Sunmi, who told me I could call her by her English name, Audrey (after her favorite movie star Audrey Hepburn), drove to the hospital. She explained that her English is not very good and asked me to be patient with her. Her English is not bad, but I did have difficulty understanding her at some points during the day.

The medical check was a little extensive in my opinion. I had an eye exam, hearing test, chest x-ray, blood test, and urine test. I won’t go into details, but I could not for the life of me go to the bathroom and I was all embarrassed because I had to come out of the bathroom with like a drop of pee and stand there and chug water until I could force myself to go some more. Luckily, Audrey made me feel at ease and took care of me throughout the process.

She knew I had been starving because I had not been allowed to eat for the last 12 hours, so she took me to a Korean restaurant in the basement of the hospital. My first taste of Korean food was delicious. The presentation of food here is amazing. There are always a plethora of side dishes to accompany any meal. I had a heck of a time using the metal chopsticks so they brought me a fork. I was also unable to cut my food, a beef stew type thing, so they brought me scissors to help. I definitely felt like the first timer with Korean food that I was.

Audrey and I had some great conversation even though she insisted that her English was no good. I told her that I would help her practice her English if she will help me learn some Korean. She told me that she has a daughter who is 23 and really wants to meet me. I learned that October 2-4 is Korean Thanksgiving, which is a really big holiday here. Audrey invited me to come and spend it with her family. She said that there would be a lot of visiting family and ancestors’ graves, food, and services to remember ancestors.

The trip to the hospital took a bit of time, but was overall not so horrible. When I got back to my apartment I rearranged some furniture, unpacked, and tried to organize. I still have some things to do to get settled, but my body is definitely feeling some jet lag, so I am going to give myself the rest of the afternoon to nap and relax. Monica is supposed to come over this evening to visit with me. I am going to ask her to show me around this area a bit so I can have an idea of where some things are like a grocery store and bank.

I really can’t believe I am finally here. So glad to have made it safely.


Namaste

9.18.2009

Mental Tug O' War

The last month has been more than a little insane. Let me recap briefly; packed and all set to leave for a year in South Korea, phone call 2 days before departure: "no job, sorry", not going to South Korea, contemplating how to get a teaching job at the last minute, trying to figure out where to go, skeptical to take another teaching job in Korea, narrowed it down to Korea or NYC, Korea or NYC, Korea or NYC, Korea or NYC........................ and finally Korea wins out.

This emotional roller-coaster I have been stuck on has taught me a lot about life and myself these past few weeks. I have realized that not everything is going to work out as you had hoped, and sometimes you get the short end of the stick for no reason. I have also realized that my adventurous spirit is strong and a large part of me craves the unknown. I feel that this was my deciding factor in this instance and it has led me to some of the most amazing experiences of my life in the past.

I have decided to write this blog during my time overseas, not only to keep you all up-to-date with what I'm doing over there, but also for people contemplating coming to Korea to teach, and lastly, for myself.

I have not been able to put down the book I am currently reading, Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux. Not because it is particularly fascinating or anything, but because of his close attention paid to detail and the experiences that he writes about during his travels. I had not kept a journal during my stints in Africa and I find myself re-reading my emails I wrote while traveling in order to get a sense of what I felt and experienced while abroad. I know that this blog will provide a way for me to journal and I will always be able to go back and remember those experiences again through my writing.

As far as reaching people who are contemplating coming to Korea, I would hope that you can use my blog to view one person's opinions and feelings while living and working in a foreign country. I say this because some days are not going to be easy and some things are going to be hard and I want to write it all.

Here's what I know. I will be teaching at a public elementary school called Neulpureun Elementary School. (click on the school name to get to it's website, although it is all in Korean!) I will be living in Bundang, which is in the Gyeonggi province. It is located south of Seoul. I am just guessing, but I think it is like 20 min./ half hour away from the city. I will have my own furnished apartment close to school. I will be working with a Korean co-teacher to help bridge the gap with the language barrier. I know I will be teaching English, but may end up teaching other subjects as well. I will actually begin teaching the first week of October. Other than that, I will let you know when I do!

I cannot tell you how many times I have heard the old "everything happens for a reason" pep talk in the past few weeks, but I know it must be true. I finally feel at peace and am eager and excited to see what awaits me in the Eastern Hemisphere.

The best travel is a leap in the dark. If the destination were familiar and friendly, what would be the point of going there?

-Paul Theroux-
Dark Star Safari



Namaste

9.01.2009

A Note on Travel

Came across this quote today. It epitomizes for me the reason that I enjoy traveling and relish the idea of travel so very much.

"Travel is more than the seeing of sights;
it is a change that goes on,
deep and permanent,
in the ideas of living."

-Miriam Beard-


Namaste